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November 15, 2009
Brief entry about my road trip to Daytona Beach and Tampa, ostensibly on business, but really motivated by surf-lust. Not worth it. October 19, 2009
We spend three days in Folly Beach, SC, trying to get some Indian Summer sun, and mostly flailing instead of surfing. Did some excessive eating, too. Best food of the trip: Taco Boy on Center Street. Best souvenir? My new (used) Todd Sutz longboard from McKevlin’s! August 11, 2009
I had an interesting (penultimate) surfing session today. I was joined by two fellow CrossFitters: Robert Novy-Marx — one of my oldest friends, an scholar of finance and an independent CrossFitter, living in Chicago — and his brother-in-law Will Novy-Hildesley — a newer friend, and a member of CrossFit H.E.L. in Portland, OR (and [...] August 10, 2009
I left for Indian Beach with my Dad at about 5:20 am, arriving a good 20 minutes before sunrise, we were pleasantly surprised by the wave shape and size. The surface was far from clean, but the swell was breaking pretty nicely in surfable sets, that were setting up nicely because the ocean stood [...] August 9, 2009
Spalding! The sea’s a lovely lady when you play in her. But if you play with her, she’s a bitch! Play in the sea, yes, but never play with her. You’re lucky to be here! You’re lucky to be ALIVE! — Swimming to Cambodia August 8, 2009
I surfed with my dad, James L. Baldwin, during the past two sessions, both at Short Sand Beach in Oswald West. I’ll spare you the details, except to say that each session topped one hour thirty minutes and that the first, on Friday, Aug. 7th (yesterday) was at Lena’s nap time and coincided with [...] August 6, 2009
Today I waited for an opportunity to surf at high tide, so, just before Lena went down for a nap, I set out for Indian Beach, about 12:30 pm. August 5, 2009
A flat ocean leads to a paddling session, but later, I discovered the surf was up right at home. Bad timing. Then the day heads towards ice cream city. Something about surfing every day just lends itself to heavy eating. August 4, 2009
I managed to get out of the driveway by 5:40 am, was at Indian Beach just after sunrise, and in the water by 6:20 or so. I had an Elk sighting on the way in. Magnificent creatures. August 2, 2009
A cold and misty solo surfing session at Indian Beach. A pipoboarding lesson with Danny. Another awesome gray day on the Oregon coast. |
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