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August 10, 2009
I left for Indian Beach with my Dad at about 5:20 am, arriving a good 20 minutes before sunrise, we were pleasantly surprised by the wave shape and size. The surface was far from clean, but the swell was breaking pretty nicely in surfable sets, that were setting up nicely because the ocean stood [...] August 9, 2009
Spalding! The sea’s a lovely lady when you play in her. But if you play with her, she’s a bitch! Play in the sea, yes, but never play with her. You’re lucky to be here! You’re lucky to be ALIVE! — Swimming to Cambodia August 6, 2009
Today I waited for an opportunity to surf at high tide, so, just before Lena went down for a nap, I set out for Indian Beach, about 12:30 pm. August 4, 2009
I managed to get out of the driveway by 5:40 am, was at Indian Beach just after sunrise, and in the water by 6:20 or so. I had an Elk sighting on the way in. Magnificent creatures. August 2, 2009
A cold and misty solo surfing session at Indian Beach. A pipoboarding lesson with Danny. Another awesome gray day on the Oregon coast. August 1, 2009
“Low and Slow” becomes “Lo, and No” July 30, 2009
Sean and I surfed Indian Beach again this morning, leaving pre-dawn, before 5:30, and getting home about three hours later. Too much goodness to go into detail. Waves were well-formed, about five foot swell from the northwest, light or no winds. It was a battle to get out, but we rode well. [...] July 29, 2009
As Sean, Steve and I left from Arch Cape at 5:30 this morning, we were startled to see three adult and one juvenile Elk in the empty lot by the fire station. We marveled a bit at these massive and elegant creatures, and then continued on our way to Indian Beach. It seemed [...] July 27, 2009
Sean and I left for Indian Beach at 5:30 am; we were the first to arrive and were on the beach just after sunrise at about five ’til six. Conditions: patchy fog, fifty seven degree seas, light north winds, uneven seven foot swell, uneven, pretty short period. We made our way out by [...] July 19, 2009
Saturday, July 18th: The Morning Session |
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