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June 12, 2010
Surfing 05 On Friday, after surfing at Indian Beach, I stopped into Cannon Beach Surf, chatted for a few minutes with the owner, Mark, and the other guy working there at the time (nice guy, bald, veteran, didn’t catch his name). There’s this green 7′ 2″ shortie board by the Greek (Bob Bolen) that I’ve [...] August 11, 2009
I had an interesting (penultimate) surfing session today. I was joined by two fellow CrossFitters: Robert Novy-Marx — one of my oldest friends, an scholar of finance and an independent CrossFitter, living in Chicago — and his brother-in-law Will Novy-Hildesley — a newer friend, and a member of CrossFit H.E.L. in Portland, OR (and Will [...] August 9, 2009
Spalding! The sea’s a lovely lady when you play in her. But if you play with her, she’s a bitch! Play in the sea, yes, but never play with her. You’re lucky to be here! You’re lucky to be ALIVE! — Swimming to Cambodia The ocean, though ever changing, is always lovely and awesome. In [...] August 5, 2009
A flat ocean leads to a paddling session, but later, I discovered the surf was up right at home. Bad timing. Then the day heads towards ice cream city. Something about surfing every day just lends itself to heavy eating. August 2, 2009
A cold and misty solo surfing session at Indian Beach. A pipoboarding lesson with Danny. Another awesome gray day on the Oregon coast. July 17, 2009
No surfing, but a nice hard workout and a beautiful day for an eerie trip into the Oregon Islands National Wildlife Refuge on my Kayak. Followed by an evening binge on banana ice cream and chocolate. July 14, 2009
Sunday, July 12th: Visit from the Kuhne’s I took Sunday as a rest day from working out or surfing… that seemed like a reasonable plan after four surfing sessions in three days (two on Thursday, one Friday, one Saturday) and a 5k run that had left me with almost crippling soreness in my calves (Saturday). [...] July 11, 2009
On this gray, misty, damp morning, the winds were quiet but the sea still looked rather white and forbidding, leftover chop and mess from yesterday. But Sean and I left out of the house at about 6:00 am anyway and headed to Smuggler’s Cove. I was reassured by the tranquil walk down the trail to [...] July 8, 2009
My alarm didn’t go off — I couldn’t figure out why… it was indeed set — and so I woke up a bit later than plan, of my own accord, at 5:53 am. It is a misty, mysterious morning. The sea is covered with fog, and a light rain is soaking everything. Strangely, all the [...] July 5, 2009
This is a Rest Day — the first real, low activity rest day since last Sunday — and is another Cheat Day, since I had a massive Dim Sum lunch today that — I swear to God — almost killed me. It tasted delicious, of course, in the process, but afterward, even 8 hours later, [...] |
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