mid morning surf

Had a glorious Tuesday surf at Indian Beach today. Spent about two hours in the water. I paddled to the southern end of the surf, where the NW swell gets through a bit more. Had the waves almost to myself. Another guy showed up but he was cool, and we talked a bit. It was clean, and nicely shaped. I got to work on my left. I took several left breaking shoulders and had fun. But the currents on the inside on the south end of Indian are brutal. On several occasions I had to fight hard back to the outside — even swimming in front of my board — through the chop, breakers, and currents of the south end; down just to the north of submarine rock it’s a swirling cauldron.

Took hundreds of strokes. Rode maybe a dozen waves. Took as many spills. Quite a workout.

Water temp: about 58 degrees. Swell: WNW/NW 5 feet at 8 seconds. No wind. Plenty of water in the “cove” from 9:00 am to 12:00 noon, on a rising tide.

Let me know what you think...