sunday at oswald

Super early… left at 5:01 am for morning session at Shorties. Grey sky. Light wind. SW swell 2 feet at 17 seconds. Pretty high tide, but falling fast (-1.4 ft/hr) while I was out there. Sunrise at 5:35. In the water by 5:45 am. Initially I was alone. Sounds decent, right? But it was too small. The waves were soft and just ill-shaped enough to make it a tough go. It was choppy on the south end, as it always is. Maybe it was the falling tide, maybe I’m out of shape, or maybe I was just too tired on what should have been a rest day, but it was very hard to find a good spot and stay set up. In short, I sucked. But it was only my second time out this summer.

A bit later one other early riser was out there too. Better than me.

My new wetsuit is so big, thick, heavy, and tight, it takes enormous effort to put on, and even greater effort to remove. I’m starting to think of it as being made out of boa constrictors. It took me almost 20 minutes to get my act together, strip down, pack up, and get back to the car.

Sitting cold on the logs, wrestling with the constrictor, I watched a few more wave chasers take to the flat waters. From the shore they looked like a rippling sheet of black iron.


Let me know what you think...