awesome tuesday Oswald gloaming session

“If the doors of perception were cleansed, everything would appear to man as it is, infinite.” — Aldous Huxley

surfing 12

Everything happens only once. It is so important to remember that even within a routine, even within a pattern of praxis, what you are doing right now is inherently unique and unrepeatable. We never return to a past moment. So: appreciation. For the now; for this happening that cannot exactly recur; for events the likes of which you may never again see.

Tuesday evening I arranged a hall pass for myself, and took off BEFORE kid bedtime to go hit the rising tide, and the lower evening winds, at Shorties. What a beautiful amazing session. I hiked all the way up the sand to the NW end of the beach. There were 4 foot waves W/NW; 10+ second period; warmish, 60+ degree water; glassy surface; light N winds mostly blocked by Cape Falcon on the north end. Blue sky. Amazing colors, light, and sounds. Not too many people.

It was surfing the way surfing should be. Calm. Gorgeous. Smooth. Many fun rides.

I would have kept going but I lacked the stamina. My hamstrings, calves, and quads started cramping up on both sides, it was actually quite painful. Giving in to my weakness, I left about 30 minutes earlier than planned. I was probably in the water about 90 minutes, from about 7:00 to about 8:30 pm. There were only 3 or 4 surfers who stayed in the water longer, until sundown at about 8:55 pm. It was glorious to return to the beach and not be in a rush. Sitting on a rock, watching the cliffs glow with the reflected orange of sunset, I enjoyed my thermos of lemon ginger green tea.

Then, in the gloaming and growing dark, I returned to a quiet house and a large, late dinner.


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