Feeling almost whole again, just in time for summer’s end, went surfing on Saturday, warmed up and lifted on Sunday, surfed on Monday and have plans for the week. The surf is up, the winds are down, and I’ll be taking advantage every day. It’s the next to last week, and these are the next to next to last sessions of the summer.
I notice I’m weaker and deconditioned, but my system is starting to ramp up. Although I’ve probably lost some power capacity and overall strength in the past few weeks, I can tell that all I need to do to get it back is eat right, sleep, and hit it!
Surfing 22: Saturday Hard Paddling Outgoing Tide at Short Sand Beach
Saturday Arch Cape was socked in by fog but a quick recon run to the store in Manzanita revealed sunny weather south of Cape Falcon. So I hit the afternoon session at Short Sand, arriving during the middle of the outgoing tide. Nearly every spot in all three parking lots was full, although I managed to find a free space near my favorite parking spot. I could not believe what I saw: it seemed like every damn surfer within 100 miles of Oswald had brought out the family for a sunny Saturday on the waters.
But! Conditions were crazy. The swell was NW, at five feet, with a six to seven second period… and winds were high, straight north, not great conditions for Shorties. But at least it was sunny! Furthermore, high winds on Friday had kicked up an incredible chop. Wind wave and swell combined, the southernmost waves reached about head high, when they cooperated.
The northern end of Short Sand Beach was not looking particularly cleaner than the south. It appeared to be smaller too, and with danger of having to fight my way back out against the shore break. Also: it was crowded with surfers.
So I went out on the south end, along the channel. Paddling out, it felt more like a wild river than the surface of the ocean. The north winds and an outgoing tide combined produced a river of surface waters flowing south and out. At least that made the the south end a speedy, if roller-coastering paddle out. But then, I spent an hour constantly paddling towards shore in order to stay in the river like current that wanted to take me out of Smuggler Cove, around the southern cape.
I maneuvered over to the big pile up that occurs at the southernmost and outermost breaking spot at Shorties, out by the rocks. I have never seen the waters of Smuggler Cove so wind-tossed, white-capped, and crazy as they were on this occasion. and paddled out to where an outer break was mimicking a “big wave” reef break. The swell was humping up in one place, breaking both left and right, then surging and returning to swell. A perfect short ride, like a mini-big wave.
But the crazy battle to stay in position against the rock! I paddled against the current constantly — I could hardly remain in the area where the wave was breaking. Though I did. I rode that wave (pretty badly, but I rode it) a few times. I was trying to practice my left. It was a wildly unstable surface, but for some reason, probably the slightly offshore angle of the wind, and the river-like current of the water, the messy surface rose up in a rolling swell every 8 seconds or so. The angle was perfect for practicing take offs. Getting caught in the break caused only temporary distress. So I played.
After a while this exercise wore me out and I basically decided to go home. So I looked toward shore and paddled harder. For a long time. A really long time. Whereas it had taken perhaps forty strokes to get out, it took me hundreds of strokes to get back in to shore. In the end I had to paddle northward in order to get out of the flow.
If you think too much about that it is kinda scary. I loved being out there. Know before you go.
Lift Heavy Things: Sunday 5/3/1 Cycle II Phase i part B
Sunday afternoon I got my act together and did Deadlifts and Shoulder Press at Arch Cape Lift (aka Grass and Gravel Driveway Gym).
Ran 1/4 mile, sprinted 1/4 mile, 2 min jump rope, stretching, shoulder dislocates, 10 burpees, 10 push ups, 10 sit ups, 10 squats, 8 x 45# deadlifts, 8 x 45# shoulder press.
5 x 80 / 5 x 90 / 13 x 100
I think this is my record for 100.
5 x 200 / 5 x 225 / 8 x 255
I wish I had a coach here to help me see my form better. But I think I did well. These numbers are nothing impressive. And the session left me feeling weak.
Kipping Pull Ups
Set of 8. Not up to more. My hands are soft again.
Surfing 23: Gray Monday Morning Bigger and Cleaner Low Incoming Tide at Indian Beach
So yes. My workout on Sunday left me feeling deconditioned, indeed. But I’ve been keeping my nutrition pretty darn clean. And my recovery was good. Monday, there was a spring in my step, and the forecasts were for clean and big NW waves. I had to go surfing.
The only trouble was, the tide was way out during my window of opportunity. I arrived at Indian Beach at 8:40 am. I was in the water at 9:00, and back at my car at 10:05 am. There was a negative low tide, and it was coming in slowly. So I surfed about a solid hour, chasing these nice head high swells in the incoming low tide. The waves had a rideable shape, but if you got too far inside the breaking face it might as well have been a close out — down you go! I actually had a few great rides, all rights. I got pitched off a few funny waves, got rolled a few times, and did a lot of paddling After riding one wave a bit too far to the inside, I found myself fighting through the shore break. While I was going over a big wall of white water on my way out I realized that taking a long board through a breaker is like doing a burpee to muscle-up. I was feeling stronger today.